Skincare For Age Groups: BUSTED!

June 18, 2009

Recently I was reminded of a persistent myth being sold as fact by many cosmetics companies. The idea of skincare needs being different based on the age of the person using said products.

The pitch goes like this...

Cosmetics Salesperson: “We make various different creams based on your age. The skin needs different ingredients at 30, 40 and 50 than it does at 20. It's important to use a program suited to your age.”

Me: “How does the product know how old I am?”

Cosmetics Salesperson: “Our scientists have developed . . . . . . “

It is ludicrous to think a cream can perform differently based on the age of the person. It is the same principle as buying different products for different areas of the face (eye creams, neck creams) or buying them for different times of the day (day creams, night creams) or even buying them for different times of the year.

As well, there is the subtle implication that older skin is somehow inferior when compared with younger skin which only reinforces the feelings of inadequacy on which the companies trade.

What if a person who is 60 and used good skincare and sunscreen their entire life is compared with a 20-something who is a heavy smoker and suntans? Which is the healthier skin? I assure you not the Vitamin C deficient, UV damaged one.

Skincare choices should be based on skin condition not chronological age. When choosing skin care products, always remember:

1. Choose a cleanser based on the texture – they all work the same

2. You only need one moisturizer for day, night and eyes. For oily skin look for an oil free moisturizer and for dry skin look for a lot of NMF's. Always use a moisturizer with an AHA or BHA.

3. Sunscreen – all day, everyday.

Celeb Endorsements: BUSTED!

June 16, 2009

Connie in Ottawa tweeted me: “If the celebrity endorses the product, claims must be true”

The truth is, agents love when cosmetics companies hire celebs to endorse products because often the money is better than any film pays.

Emmy Award Winner Nancy Lee Grahn is the paid spokesperson for AminoGenesis. AminoGenesis makes claims such as:

1. “...the stratum corneum. Until recently, this outer surface has been thought of as nothing more than a layer of dead surface skin cells.”

2. “All ingredients used must be capable of penetrating the stratum corneum...”

The first statement is ridiculous – the stratum corneum is part of the epidermis – of which all the layers are cells that have completed their life cycle. All cosmetics penetrate the epidermis. The second statement I agree with, but any well-formulated emulsion can achieve this.

AminoGenesis Tripeptinon™ Face Lift in a Capsule ($95 for 40 capsules)

1. Tripeptinon™ - the TM symbol is the first warning. Anytime I see a made up word I scrutinize the ingredients. Without fail the “ingredient” never appears on the INCI list.

2. INCI breakdown:

Cyclomethicone, Dimethiconol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride - moisturizers found in 99% of cosmetics

Simmondsia Chinesis - jojoba oil

Ceramide Complex 2 - common in many cosmetics – prevents water loss

Ubiquinone - CoQ10 – even Nivea uses this ingredient

Amino Multi-Tides - water binding agents – that's all AA's can do

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate - mild Vitamin C

PEG10 Rapeseed Sterol, Triticum Vulgare - canola and wheat germ oil – NMFs (moisturizers)

Glycyrrhiza Glabra - licorice – anti-inflammatory

Carthamus Tinctorius - safflower oil – NMF

Angelica Archangelica Extract - plant extract with no benefit to skin

Tribehenin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate - common fatty acids - emollients

Citrus Bark Extract - fragrance

Conclusion: This product is a great moisturizer but no better than many on the market. Just because a celeb loves the line doesn't mean it does anything amazing.